Why is my Sub-Zero refrigerator not cooling?

The reasoning behind that

A Sub-Zero built-in runs two separate sealed systems, one per compartment, so a freezer still holding zero is proof the refrigeration works and puts the fault on the fresh-food side: that circuit's evaporator fan, a defrost failure that has iced its coil, or a door seal that has stopped gripping along the hinge stile. If both compartments have gone warm at once the question changes to heat rejection, and in Solana Beach that starts at the grille above the doors rather than anywhere near the floor. Paneled kitchens here routinely cap that grille with a soffit or a filler panel, and a unit re-breathing its own exhaust behaves precisely like one with a choked coil.

How the diagnosis goes

Cold freezer, warm refrigerator, and the checks run cheapest and likeliest first. Is the fresh-food evaporator fan turning at all. Is the coil behind the rear panel buried in ice. Is that compartment's defrost heater still finishing its cycle. Does the seal still grip along its whole length. Those four questions account for most of these calls and every answer is a stock part. Nothing in that pattern implicates a compressor, and a quote naming one before the rear panel has come off is a quote written without looking.

Both compartments warm, and the answer tends to follow your address. Toward Fletcher Cove the fins hold a salt-bearing film that has glued dust down inside the coil, which has to be combed rather than blown, and the terminals in the machine compartment get inspected in the same pass because corrosion there generates faults that mimic a dying board. On the Lomas Santa Fe side the deposit is dry, clears easily and comes back sooner. Whichever side you are on, we also look at what sits above the grille, since a clean coil in a sealed pocket under a soffit performs like a dirty one and no part in the van will change that.

If that matches what yours is doing, say so when you call — it decides which parts come on the van.